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A rock church out in the Murgia park, known for its images of the Virgin – and for an art theft that made headlines in Italy.

Setting and name

The Madonna delle Tre Porte lies beyond the gorge in the Parco della Murgia Materana. It owes its name to the three openings in the rock face through which the interior is entered – from outside, the only hint that a church lies behind the stone.

The frescoes

Inside, images of the Virgin survive that rank among the better-known paintings in the region. In the 1960s parts of them were cut out of the wall and stolen; some came back later. The cut edges are still visible and tell their own story – they are the reason many rock churches in the park are now kept locked.

Visiting

The church lies on a walking trail and is not always open. For the interior a guide is advisable; without local knowledge even the path is not easy to find. The route runs across the plateau, at times seemingly trackless, and without shade.

What to bring

Sturdy shoes, water, sun protection. In summer avoid the middle of the day – on the Murgia there is neither tree nor shelter. Combine the walk with other targets and you will pass Jazzo Gattini and the Belvedere Murgia Timone.

Still to be added: Opening times, guided tours and directions from the nearest car park.

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